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Haute Couture is a pretty much misused phrase that actually has very certain rules for qualification. When translated, couture is French word for “sewing” or “dressmaking,” while haute means “high” or “elegant.” These are garments created as one-off pieces for a particular client. To qualify as an official Haute Couture house, members must design made-to-order clothes for special private clients, with more than just one fitting, using a workshop (atelier) that employs at least fifteen full-time staff. They, too, must have twenty full-time technical workers in one of their ateliers. Also, all Haute Couture houses must show a collection of no less than fifty must-be original designs; both day and evening garments — to the public every season, in the months of January and July.
Haute Couture enters a new era, with a governing body: the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) — that’s altered up its style to fill the gap between heritage and contemporary design. You may definitely create your own style with Haute Couture.
What exactly is the purpose of Haute Couture?
Ever since the emergence of ready-to-wear clothes or fashion at the start of the 20th century, Haute Couture’s relevance had been sort of declining. The grueling guidelines and labour-intensive practices (today, one Giambattista Valli couture gown can take about 240 hours and 6,000 metres of fabric to create — which is A LOT) depict it inconveniences to anyone outside of the target audience. Guided by the FHCM, Haute Couture has evolved to be an Instagrammable showcase of artisans and creative grandeur, an ode to what can be achieved by the industry’s premier designers and craftsmen, its creations giving a trickle-down effect of inspiration on ready-to-wear and fast-fashion collections.
“Haute couture is a spearhead in terms of creation, a fantastic laboratory for research, both in terms of craftsmanship and design innovation,” explains Toledano. “Haute couture is a land of free expression for designers, as well as an image builder for brands.”
Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri added: “Creatively, FHCM is an incredible support because it is capable of coordinating a very rich and diversified body without getting involved in the vision of each house. I began working with FHCM while I was creative director at Valentino, although I wasn’t in such close contact as I am now. Since being at Dior, I’m frequently in touch with FHCM and the collaboration has been fundamental in my understanding of how French fashion works and performs, what its cultural and political appeal is and how they are brought forward.”
What are the rules of Couture?
Much word roams around the strict rules and regulations required of Haute Couture houses by the FHCM. Legally protected in 1945, ‘Haute couture’ is also a label that can only be awarded by a commission appointed by the Ministry of Industry. Again, for it to be eligible for Haute Couture status, all participating members must create made-to-order garments in an atelier of at least fifteen full-time staff, as well as twenty full-time technical workers in one of their ateliers. Those are the rules. Guest members are invited each season. Now if a brand wishes to become an eligible member, that brand must be invited four times in a row.
You can assume of couture as the highest of elegant fashion, dawned by internationally renowned brands like Christian Dior and Chanel. In January and July each year, they all present painstakingly elaborate and extremely expensive designs to a handpicked audience of editors, buyers and clients. Surely, there’s no better place in the world to present off these creations than on the red carpet or on major award programs.
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