This peasant soup is based on inexpensive, hearty, substantial beans in broth thickened with pasta and is found throughout Italy. The texture of this soup ranges from thin and smooth if puréed to thick and hearty, almost stewlike, depending on region and taste. In this recipe, we use pancetta (pork belly that has been salt and air-cured like prosciutto) for its potent savory flavor and rich fat, but you may substitute more olive oil. Pasta e Fagioli is often made with tender- skinned cannellini (white kidney) beans or meaty borlotti (or Romano) beans. Better yet is to use fresh shelled beans such as cranberry beans (found in season at farmers’ markets and Asian groceries), which don’t need any soaking. You will need to start the soup one day ahead to soak the beans. This soup freezes well without the pasta. Add the pasta after reheating the soup.

 How To Make Pasta e Fagioli

Makes about 1 gallon (4 L), serves 8 to 12 Ingredients

• ½ pound (225 g) pancetta, chilled until firm

• ¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons (30 ml) for serving

• 1 small red onion, chopped

• ½ fennel bulb, finely chopped

• 3 carrots, finely diced

• 3 ribs celery, thinly sliced

• 1 tablespoon (10 g) chopped garlic

• 2 cups (360 g) chopped plum tomatoes (canned or fresh)

• 6 cups (600 g) cooked cannellini beans (see “Cooking Dried Beans,” below)

• 2 quarts (2 L) Chicken or Vegetable Stock (page 9 or 14)

• ½ pound (225 g) ditalini or small dried pasta shells

• 2 cups (40 g) whole baby arugula or large arugula leaves shredded (if field-grown, wash the arugula thoroughly)

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 ounces (55 g) each grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and Romano cheeses

Baby arugula is prewashed and easy to use in this soup but larger field-grown arugula works as well. Just be sure to wash it thoroughly, changing the water if necessary. Slice larger leaves of arugula crosswise into 1-inch (2.5 cm) sections before adding to the soup.

1. Use a sharp chef’s knife to slice all around the outside as a cutting guide. Following the guide, slice off a piece of pancetta about 1-inch (2.5 cm) thick, which will weigh about 1/2 pound (225 g).

2. Cut the pancetta into small cubes by first slicing into 1/4-inch (6 mm) slices. Then cut the slices into thick sticks.

3. Turn the sticks around so the ends are facing the knife. Cut the sticks into cubes.

4. In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, lightly brown the pancetta in the olive oil over moderate heat.

5. Add the red onion, fennel, carrot, celery, and garlic and cook until the vegetables are soft but not browned, about 5 minutes.

6. Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil.

7. Add the cooked beans, any bean cooking liquid, and the Chicken Stock and bring back to a boil.
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